There's something so exciting and rewarding about discovering new designers (even when they're just new to you). It's like unearthing an archaeological treasure or finding a gleaming pearl inside an otherwise unremarkable oyster — you're stuck by the immense beauty and untapped potential, and you're overcome by the feeling that, somehow, this is your very own little secret (which makes it feel all the more special). On January 20th and 21st, several up-and-coming Australian designers showcased their Spring/Summer 2010 and Fall/Winter 2010 lines as part of a special showcase at the Australian Consulate in New York City. The labels showcased were: Cylk, Natalie Chapman, Pink Sparrow, Pizzuto, Stand, Vanguard, Luela, Amar, Dana Mathers, and Katelyn Aslett. Some of these designers boast vast customer bases in Australia, while others are just beginning to make a splash back home, and all of them are relatively unknown in the US and hoping to expand their reach.
Here's a look at some of the lines and pieces that really caught my attention:
NATALIE CHAPMAN
I was immediately drawn to the bold color palettes of Natalie Chapman's Spring/Summer 2010 and Winter 2010 collections. The SS10 collection is centered on very vibrant, ocean-inspired hues like: Malaysian Blue, a dazzling, pool party-esque turquoise; Gold, a mustard yellow hue with a lustrous finish; Long Island Blue, a sky blue color; and Black (which actually translates like more of a dark navy blue). True to the Sydney-based designer's aesthetic, all the pieces are made of a spandex-like fabric which stretches to hug the body like a second skin.
Normally, the idea of donning dresses and blouses made of spandex-like materials would petrify me — I mean, let's face it, this is not exactly the most forgiving of fabrics. But what makes Chapman's pieces so genius is the way she constructs these pieces so that they drape and blouse around those body areas that make us feel most self-conscious. A batwing dress, for example, will blouse all along the midsection and then hug the hip area to add definition and contour to the silhouette. A strapless maxi dress, meanwhile, will hug the bosom and then flare the slightest bit so as not to overemphasize the stomach area.
I was even more smitten with the pieces I saw from the Winter 2010 collection — the silhouettes were strikingly similar but the gold and navy palette was beyond impressive. Here's a look at some of the garments I saw, along with suggested retail prices. Visit NatalieChapman.com.au for more information.
Natalie Chapman 3 Panel Tube Dress in Malaysian Blue, Gold and Long Island Blue, $190.
Natalie Chapman Winter 2010 Batwing, $230.
Natalie Chapman Spring/Summer 2010 Mai Tai 3 Panel Maxi, $260.
Natalie Chapman Spring/Summer 2010 Maxi Mai Tai in Malaysian Blue, $260.
LUELA
Launched in 2008 by Julie Shaw and Brenda Ayoub, this Sydney-based fashion line features vintage-inspired pieces made of 100% silk Duppion, silk satin, silk seersucker, and silk chiffon, as well as cotton voile, jersey, wool, tulle, embroidered lace, and more. What makes these pieces so breathtaking is the attention to detail, the daintiness of the embroideries and embellishments that give each Luela garment such a coquettish feel.
The collection consists mostly of muted cream, pink, and gray colors (quartz, sterling, pebble, slate, ivory, shell, heather gray, winter white, almond, champagne, pewter, and ash) with the occasional dash of brightness (such as a turquoise or jade green dress). The understated color palette gives the pieces even more of an antique feel and helps to heighten the collection's Victorian-esque, porcelain doll-like vibe. I loved almost every single piece I laid eyes on: from the Coco dress in Sapphire, a strapless turquoise dress made of 100% silk Dupion and featuring a banded waist and small ruffles along the bust, to the Billie Playsuit, a strapless jumpsuit in a heather gray hue featuring a beige ribbon waist tie and embroidered lace detailing along the bodice.
Here's a look at some of the standouts in the Fall/Winter 2010 collection. Visit Luela.com.au for more information.
Luela "Evie" Dress in Quartz, $322.
Luela "Coco" Dress in Sapphire, $345.
Luela "Sienna" Dress, $345.
Luela "Billie Playsuit" in Slate, $241.50.
Luela Lucie Dress in Ivory, $322.
PIZZUTO
Designer Suzie Rose Vella (nee Suzie Pizzuto) launched this edgy label from her East Sydney home back in 2004, eventually launching a flagship boutique in 2007. A recent show held at NYC hot spot Nolche on Sept. 15th 2009 received a rave response, and Pizzuto is now poised to make its long overdue foray into the US market. The rock 'n' roll edge of these pieces really spoke to me, since it's perhaps most consistent with my personal style.
The Emerald City Cocktail Dress took me breath away: it's an emerald green shift dress with a black lace overlay along the neckline decorated with gold pyramid studs and an exposed gold zipper trim. Other all-stars included: the Lion Kaftan top, with its leopard and cheetah print, its plunging V-shaped neckline; the Enchanted Cocktail Dress, an emerald green, strapless silk dress with a gold braided cord detail along one shoulder; and the studded black leather trim along the neckline, and the Gray Fur Coat, a floor-length jacket so soft and cozy you'll actually want to brush your cheek against it and doze of into a land of sleep dreams.
Here's a look at some of the pieces:
Pizzuto Lion Kaftan, $69 (wholesale).
Pizzuto Fur Jacket, $89 (wholesale).
PINK SPARROWBuilding on the momentum of her Pizzuto line, designer Suzie Rose launched a sister line, Pink Sparrow, in December of 2009. Catering to a younger clientele, Pink Sparrow features highly affordable, fun, trend-driven pieces like floral print sleeveless dresses in jersey fabrics, flirty party dresses with tiered ruffle skirts, and shrug jackets with dramatic ruffled collars.
Most of the pieces would be best suited for a tweeny customer, but here's an example of two garments that have much wider appeal.
Pink Sparrow "Manhattan Wrap" Jacket, $34.50 (wholesale).
Pink Sparrow "Central Park" Dress, $29.50 (wholesale).
CYLK
Eco-friendly fashion knitwear brand Cylk features simple, body-conscious, versatile, seamless pieces made of bamboo, jersey and silk blends. Cylk's pieces aren't particularly showy — instead, they're the type of garments you can mix and match, or layer with other pieces, to create a wealth of looks (like a high-end, version of, say, American Apparel). The line's signature seamless technology makes every piece look like second skin, and the softness of the bamboo blend fabrics make these ideal for any cosmopolitan girl.
For its Fall/Winter 2010 "Femme Fatale" collection, Cylk took a cue from the film noir era, with shadowy aubergine, burgundy, ruby, fawn, mauve, and cream hues imbued with the allure of a smoke-filled room. Geometrical patterns, meanwhile, help to accentuate a woman's assets, while helping to conceal potential problem areas. Among my favorite pieces are the Vertex Dress, a sleeveless number with a thick geometric strip running vertically along the torso and thinner lines branching out from there in horizontal and diagonal angles. I also adored the Allure Skirt, a draped jacquard, high-waisted pencil skirt that will make any woman look like she has a Coca Cola bottle-esque figure. Check out some of the pieces below.
Cylk Vertex Dress and Vertex Top
Cylk Vertex Top
Cylk Allure Skirt
Cylk Zenith Dress
Cylk Momento Top
